In today's episode I'm joined by Helen Reavey.
Helen’s a woman that knows a thing or two about hair, and something we often don't think about - our scalp. After spending her career working on fashion week's around the world and editorial shoots with mega brands like Fendi, she started to see the negative effects of heat and products on our head, and set out to create a modern hair care business designed to keep your scalp and hair healthy.
We’re chatting about her journey and how she’s gone about creating a product that didn't exist in the market, the power of a striking brand, what challenges come along with committing to a 100% sustainable brand and the argument for Amazon vs Netaporter.
Please note, this transcript has been copy pasted without the lovely touch of a human editor. Please expect some typos!
So actually the journey really began and a lot of people don't really know this. I actually did a degree in business first before I became a hair stylist. So kind of like very different worlds altogether, but I really wanted um to finish my education and also I wasn't even sure if I was going to be a hairstylist that didn't even come top of mind for me at the beginning and it was just like a few different experiences that I had that made me realize, okay, I really love doing hair.
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Like I've done it like as a child growing up, just friends are here and there and so after college I said to myself, you know what, I'm going to just go and trend properly and see if this is something I really love, but for me there had to be like that end go there had to be a, something that I could aspire to and you know, you grew up thinking, ok, you just work in a hair salon, you do these blow dries and Matthew. But once I started to like understand and research into it, I realized actually there's a whole other world to hear that I didn't understand where they come from, a very small town and has never been exposed to before. So for me and when I started to realize that and I went back to like, I came from college and actually went back to like junior school for hairdressing, um I'm trying to be a hairstylist, I went to London Land and Transistor soon, and then I was art director for a salon in Ireland, And so I did that for many years um uh it was in 2013, I realized that I'd hit that kind of feeling of creativity and was like, okay, what's the next step for me?
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And started to understand the fashion world and you know, these careers that existed like for fashion week, do an editorial like that more creative side of it on day, so kind of like putting all those thoughts together and I love new york, I've been coming to new york for years, I like that's it, I want to make some new york stuff, I really want to make my dreams come true, so literally just pack my bags and left everything in Ireland one by myself and I was like, okay, I'll go for Fashion week, see if I can get any work picked up a couple of shows and then you realize once you're there, things just start to like roll along on, you know, you really start to get your momentum worked really hard for yourself out there and I started just things just started to really develop for me and within the first year I, I was on tour with Alicia keys, doing her hair and I went to paris Fashion making was working with on Mcknight and the likes of Chanel and fendi shows and so it came from like this salon work and I was now living my dream in new york and so that's kind of like the background to my career.
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I'm not signed with an agency, so A actor maker is, until now it was kind of like 5050 where I was on set 3-4 days a week with my clients. Um I stopped doing fashion week, once I started vaccinating because obviously that takes up a lot of time. I've done that for almost eight years, a traveling around the world and every show you can imagine. And so then now with Actor Maker, I still keep some clients for like, you know, I'll do that have that creative day of, you know, working with my favorite photographers or favorite grab and I feel like it's really complementary to it as well. So I'm able to bring that back to the brand also for me to get to get our heads with and go away for a little while, be creative and come back because obviously I picked up a whole other role with running the brand on the company. And so when you were doing things like the Fashion week circuit and you were working with all these people, is that when you started to think, hey, I need a product that doesn't really exist right now, there's something, you know, there's an idea that you had, or you saw a gap in the market for actor maker and then you decided to pursue it.
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What happened there? Well with myself as well, I've always suffered with various scalp issues have had eczema as a child. I grew up with, you know, this kind of like actually through my scalp, always looking for, you know, cleansing my scalp probably one volume because it I was clarifying hair and you know, really in search for that, but also during fashion week, what I noticed was, I think especially at the end of it, like paris is always like the last week of one month long, everyone's tired, everyone's exhausted. The girls come into the last couple of shows and they're scouts are so tender even just to touch because they've been pulled and prodded and can you imagine the mind of like products that are used, the hair sprays and gels whatever and we're like forcing their hair to perform and so it was really like, you know, I always really thought of a sculptor as you know, you should really treat it the same way as you do your skin.
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It is an extension of your face and you know, I've always been so interesting, like my research has contributed research and your scalp is the six times faster than your face. Like what trying to understand like why we treat the end of it, but we're not even thinking about the scalp and so putting all the connecting all these dots together. Like understanding okay, these guys have you so much product on the hair but that's not performing and we're trying to fix it by putting more product on a to make it perform and so yeah, that gets your thought process go and you're like okay, what's what's happening here? And it really was a build up a product. Um I started to then really delve deeper into the hair care industry and examine the products we use and I was disappointed with like the substandard products that we were being served up, you know, it either had to have a lot of chemicals in it to remove or help you perform or um it was so natural that there wasn't that level of performance in it.
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And so we really came up with, you know, we did so much research into like, hi can we innovate, hi can we make this different? Because they didn't just want to create another product that existed. I really wanted to reinvent despair. And so that's where actor Maker came from and the cold process method is something that we patent this and it's never existed before and that allowed us to create something that was extremely clean. It was sustainable because he's 90% less energy but also the ingredients that we put into that actually retained their efficacy. So that allowed us to clean ingredients that perform extremely well. And so what are those kind of ingredients, can you tell us what's in the product? Oh yeah of course. So we are scalp detox and has basil leaf extract dinner. So basil leaf and there's been you know numerous studies on it to show that it stimulates the blood flow to the hair follicle um it allows um the nutrients to deliver to their fall is going to help that hair follicle grow stronger.
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I'm not getting to science say about it, it's really like how you treat your plants like they need the nutrients in the soil for them to grow healthier and so it all begins at the scalp keeping the scalp healthy, keeping it rejuvenated. You know if you have the Abdulle lifeless hair and it's really probably is because your scalp just needs that little bit of TLC, we moisturize our face every day but we never moisturize your scalp and so it's a mixture of you know removal and nourishing and moisturizing and so these ingredients like follow your lang lang and violently um baobab Moringa marines, they're all nutrient dense, they're all full of antioxidants which really helped you know remove the dead skin, deliver nutrients stimulate that blood flow. So and for us it's not about a quick fix. So you know we're not gonna say oh this is going to make your hair like silky and shiny and have your dream hair in one day, this is really a long term approached. So this is what we consider like a whole new category of hair wellness and similar to like your body when you start on that journey of life health, you know, it doesn't happen overnight, but slowly those little little things that you start to implement them, like whether it's egregious in the morning instead of like a fried sandwich or you know, just something more healthy, like you don't notice it straightaway, but weeks, a couple of weeks, couple of months you start to really notice the small little differences.
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And so really the end of our hair, dead protein. So there's not a whole lot you can do to help that you can help make it appear better. Pure healthier, but really the focus of your scalp and it all begins there. And it's one of those things that I imagine that if you stop using it then you really see the difference after that compounded effect. Absolute. Yeah, exactly. It is that those little 1% or 2% every day, that's changing. And as well, we're so used to like the silicones that make our hair appear if we were trying to always be like someone else, you know, trying to get her hair to look like someone else. And when you stop using those and allow your hair to be its own way because you've done it from your child. So you don't actually know what your hair is like as an adult. And now you're starting to like allow the natural textures, like my hair, you can see it dry naturally nice. I never wore my hair natural. I always wanted to smooth and straight and when I did leave a natural, it just looked like frizz or didn't have a, you know, a beautiful kind of like wave to it now, the first time ever I'm really able to just leave it to dry naturally.
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Um actually really enjoying my own texture and the natural carol come back in. Yeah, I think I have a lot of damage to my hair because I bleach it, it's blonde and I've done that for years now, so it's quite slow scruffy. I don't know what the word even is, but yeah, you know what? I bleached my hair as well. Yeah. And so you have this idea, you don't have a blueprint to go off because it doesn't exist in the market. How do you go about developing a product and finding the person to help you create that product? Mhm. I know that honestly was probably one of the most difficult part for us because it didn't exist and we really kind of like went outside the box and I started talking to people that weren't necessarily in the industry, so we have like physicist friends and Kenneth and we're like, okay, I can actually talk to you like you're my brother sister here, tell me, how is shopping me like, please just break it down.
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Like I'm a two year old child and so it was like just a lot of white board and back and forth by the process because that to me I was like no one has reinvented the process. It's always been me at the same way people are reinventing ingredients and packaging, but no one's actually going back to the beginning and reinvented the process. And so from there I was like well I know when you put lavender instead or you put your landline into that that's evaporating off because of the heat. And so at the end of the process that does not face it. And so they're like yes, okay now we're talking okay, how do we get this to exist? And so it took a lot of development on a lot of research of going back and forth and find the right people. And but cold process method was something that we came up with. So a similar like you similar to a cold pressed juice for everything, dumped three pressure and you've heard of cold process soap but it's not the same because so but actually have you have to melt it to make it into that.
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So this was actually completely different as the hyperbaric chamber £1200 of pressure to allow water to pass into oil on the ingredients together and so there are limitations but it really allows us to create a product that and it's just nutrients dance like it's so potent and then finding the person to come up with a formula but also is like extremely difficult because we have such high standards and I didn't want to sell for like just industry standards and so I had to find someone and we ended up, I find beth me here is my life failure. Um like these boat message comes all together. Um She really took it to the next level with me. Like she, they challenged me, she you know, educated me on so much. She wasn't just like oh do it that way because that's what everyone else does it. She was willing to go that extra mile for us to innovate.
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Yeah, exactly to innovate and do something new. We took like two years, almost 12 different variations of our champagne before we got there, wow, that's amazing. And at what point did you think, oh you know what, we should patent this or did someone tell you? Or or what was the, what was the process there where my husband is a lawyer and he's also my business partner. So he was like okay we need the onus that helps, we need to own this. Yeah. Oh my gosh, wow. And it was that a tricky process for him. It was, I'm like okay, I'm the creative, I talked with the idea and he's really good because he understands my favorite process, how I work and so when you know, we work a lot together and you know, we understand our strengths and weaknesses. So I'm like, okay, that's all we need to do and then he figures it out.
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And for anyone listening who might be exploring doing a patent or now curious about it. Is it an expensive process to do to go through? Obviously you have your husband who can help you as well, but if you want to have him. Yeah. Well for like trademarks and things like that, I do believe you can apply yourself And I believe around $250 to $300 for a trademark. So like your neon, you know, protect yourself in that way in your, I see, um, that kind of process is much easier for patent. He was able to write it and then obviously we do have lawyers that are able to just bring that to the next level for us and it's expensive. But when you actually figured out in the long run, it's totally worth it just to have that be your own. Yeah. Yes, I imagined so. Cool. Yeah. And in the beginning I want to talk about startup capital. You guys obviously did 12 different iterations.
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Sounds really expensive to work with chemists and botanists and all these very talented people. How much does it cost to go into this kind of process? Wow, That's awesome. I don't even think you can put a number on us and we did raise capital, but we raised capital almost after former buildings. So you know, but I suppose like if you're just going to start out, I would suggest that you find, you know, your your chemist or your lab or your manufacturers and you know, pitch to them the same way that you would pitch to an investor, make them understand you who you are as a brand, what you're bringing to them. And so for us it was very like, okay, we might be your smallest brand now. But, and I know your numbers are super high. Your minimum order quantities, maybe you want 100,000 units, but we're actually going to be your biggest customer five years from night.
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And you know, you really just want to make them believe in you as well. So that's a really good point actually. Like go into like these people and pitch to them the same way that you picture your investor and say, you know, we might not be able to afford those minimum order quantities knife, but give us a couple of years and we are going to be the biggest brand for you and it worked for us and building that relationship being so personal with them and understand them understanding you and then liking you as people and trusting you and almost bringing you into their family. Yeah. And I also imagine the patent would help you in that regard to prove how dedicated you are and how much you essentially know that you're a unique product in the market. Exactly, yeah, wow, that's really cool. Um I want to talk a little bit about your marketing and how you launched in the beginning and finding your first customers. Mm hmm. Yeah. So are we were extremely lucky and that a vogue usa I didn't exclusive launch with us in the january issue.
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So that was just incredible. Um but it's almost like, you know, for find your response, I get a good big, a good big scientific. So for me it was spending those 10 years in a side on eight years working, you know, in the industry getting you know, becoming so passionate about something. I feel if you go out to research and look for something and I try to be a part of the movement, it doesn't necessarily work. I think you have to be the movement. And so everything like we started to notice everything in the last six months is about unification of hair a scalp a you know, trading your hair like you treat your scalp the ritual and you know, the conversation has really shifted and we created this new vernacular at the beginning and for some it might have seemed a little confusing. I call another hair plans or her wellness or welcome to your new journey of scalpels and your new ritual. But for me come to our confusion, it creates a conversation and so I feel like that's how we really started and launched this brand and got the first customers, you know the taste makers be innovators, they just people who really want to discover new brands and improve themselves.
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And is that also do you mean sort of taste makers like influences and beauty bloggers and that kind of thing where you also connecting with them and sending them the products before you launched? Actually very more so we had a couple of organic influencers support the product and we like we weren't really in that influence their space at all because I've worked with like obviously super models, models, that kind of thing and so like a few, like I've obviously been given to friends and I followed a few people who really love their aesthetic and things like that but that came much later, we did less of that at the beginning and it was more organic and moving on from the launch to where you are now, what do you think it is like in the marketing scene that's working for you at the moment, what helps you acquire new customers now? And definitely email has been super successful for us and that long form educational content I feel is what people are looking for, they really are in search of something to come out of this better, a better version of themselves and really are looking for that and in the absence of the hairstylist and people are really searching for those things to help improve and so we have developed this consultation platform so they can talk to us about anything.
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We a launch class act during this to help hairstylist out of work so that we could connect them with the customer and so that you know, they can answer any questions or you know, really just be their therapist even during this moment, doesn't even have to be here related. Have you found anything any interesting insights that you didn't think would come up from these conversations? Like have you seen any trends that maybe you hadn't expected to hear about women's hair or you know anything? Well, I didn't realize how much people really wanted to cut their own hair and dye their own hair during this because I just let my hair go natural for quite a long time and really you want to cut a fringe during this. So I think I really started to understand that psychological and physiological connection with your hair that you know, I didn't realize it was as strong, I knew it was there. Or maybe it's just subconsciously in me, but really when people go through a moment it's the first thing they think about is that hair.
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Yeah, I think I'm part of that statistic because since we went into quarantine, I've dyed my hair bright pink. It's obviously back to blonde now because it's washed out and I have also some bright blue that I'm planning on putting in. Yeah, I might even do it today, I might even do it this afternoon. But yeah, I really find like, you know now is the time, why not have some fun we've been doing at home haircuts this morning actually, because the men in our household need haircuts want someone. No, it's quite funny, to be honest. Um I wanted to ask you, I was reading about an article that you mentioned in vogue business about your stocked on amazon and the shift of brands who maybe before hadn't thought about going on amazon for, you know, the kind of the message that it was sending, but now brands are moving onto the platform and amazon has created a space on the platform for sort of top tier premium brands.
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How do you kind of like manage the fact that you guys have amazon, but then you also have brands like Net Support and Sephora and like, you know, huge amounts of retailers stocking your product, How do you kind of manage that difference in brand messaging? Moving on to a place like amazon or I guess maybe the better question is how did you decide to move on to amazon? Yeah, and I suppose there is a little bit of snobbery involved with some, some brands in deciding where they're gonna go and for us it's not about that, it's about who is our customer, where do they live? And where do they shop? And that's the most important thing to us And I think it's really important for a brand to be able to reach out to that 18 year old and also that 50-60 year old that's going to make you so valuable if you're able to connect to all age groups across all platforms, you need to be in those places as well.
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And for us, hair care is not about a single group of people, everybody has hair and down to the price. I know we are on the luxury and but we're still affordable and I wanted my friends and my mom to not feel uncomfortable going to purchase our father. And so for me it's like amazon is a platform. People want to get the product faster than like faster than two weeks is what normal kind of like postage is right now during the cold bit. So it really is about that access to the customer and to your problem. Yeah, definitely, definitely. And you have the brand building side. So the net reporters, the you know those kind of like retail stores and then you, you really just have to be able to I suppose support the customer and just be able to be there for them whenever they need. You, do you think that you were able to secure those kinds of brands like net a porter because of your um, your previous work and the industry that you were in or was it completely separate.
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I think there's a next year for sure. And also we've been extremely lucky and that we have never gone to anybody, They've always come to us. That's amazing. Yeah, I do believe like obviously it's being in a creative phase, we're able to produce beautiful packaging, which is extremely attractive to people and people now I want a product that not only performance, but looks beautiful in their shower, they want that moment like, okay, when you go into that hotel room and all of the accessories, it looks so beautiful. And when we were designing and I was like, I want you to see like you have that bit of that, a most amazing hotel you've been in in your own char to feel like you have that yourself. And so yeah, I feel like there's a mixture of like the innovative technology um background and being an expert in the industry and I hope, and I hope people see this as the beautiful branding on a product that perform, and also probably your sustainability message as well, because I know you're packaging and everything that you do is built from sustainable goods, and that's a message that you show on your instagram totally for me, that's like sustainability used to be a nicer house now, I think it's a have to have, and it was one of the big messages at the beginning, we were like, okay, this is something that you're starting a brand right now, you need to have this, you know, it's not just a nice to have anymore where it used to be?
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This is a necessity. So we don't pressure as much because we're like, no, this is who we do, you should be. You don't need to be pushing this method, that should be a given. Yeah. Do you think that starting the brand with that in mind that it had to be sustainable? That there were more hurdles to cross to make it a sustainable product? Oh, absolutely. There's so many things that come up, especially with packaging and you lose a lot of sleep over it and because at the beginning there's no screw that. You go to the people like, okay, you need these three ingredients for this pocket, you know, you need to package your product a certain way. And so for me, I really wanted it to look, you know, look beautiful, but in the most sustainable way. So that was like no fancy things added to it, even are down to our boxes, arising is just recycled cardboard with our logo on us. There's no um like sprayed on paint to make it look glossy and shiny when it arrives.
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It has either we do the paper shavings or the potatoes start nuggets which are dissolvable in water. Um, just you need to protect the pocketing. So, you know, things, little things like that at the beginning that you really do need a package of your product first and send it to yourself before you send it to any customer. Um you know, okay, we're asking why is it not come inside the box as well as like, oh, it's really trying to like minimalize the packaging as much as possible and then, you know, you see someone opened the box and oh, it doesn't look as pretty as what some other people do and so you start to innovate a little bit more, would you like? But how do I stick to this sustainability? Because I don't want to be adding all these things that are unnecessary. Yeah, it's a tricky thing. It's definitely a tricky thing, but I find like everyone that I'm speaking to at the moment, literally every woman that I'm speaking to has the sustainability message and I think it's just so important to be doing what we can Absolutely.
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And also like we are carbon positive night. So there is a carbon neat mutual. So like you affect the carbon that you use in your brands, if you like all the delivery, all the pocket you're making and you get to a number. And so there are wind farms that you can donate to and so we've donated double so that we're actually carbon positive at the moment. Oh my gosh, that's so cool. I love that. Yeah. Really? It is like offsetting all the energy that you use and again, just trying to be innovative with every fella. I love that because it's also like you can just be so proud that you're doing something that's good, you know, in addition to having the great product, you're actually just adding to the world. I love that. Exactly, so cool. Um I wanted to talk a bit about community because through your instagram, I noticed you have a strong community, you receive these amazing reviews and um I was laughing about the avocado toast review.
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I know we all love that review. I was like, who is this woman? I want to know her and she can be our copywriter please, because the way she told that story, I was like, wow, she just touched, she reached everyone because we can all relate to that avocado toast experience. Do you wanna for the people who are listening, do you want to tell a little bit about what she said and um I'm sure how much that brightens your day, you need to get it up here, so get it up. It was so good. It was funny. I know, and we have, we obviously use slack and we have like a daily review where we put in our favorite reviews from the week, you know, just to really break because obviously you have the opposite of like a nicer view sometimes and you know, we do that, but it's also good for the team to really see those good reviews. It's so important to like bring their spread up to let them know that you know what we're really doing something good here and and they said so worth live.
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Okay, so five star review, it starts the header is like avocado toast for your hair and, and so she starts with, You know when you go to your local cafe and order $16 avocado toast with the pickled shallots, a perfectly poached egg and freshly chopped tiles on homemade Sardo bread and maybe get some house can be to to wash it down with. It is more pricey than you expected. Maybe does it make you feel like you did your body a favor and that you're ready to tackle the day? Yeah. Activator is my $16 avocado toast in sambuca. Sure I could go and buy some pert plus two and one And relive my childhood for 5 99. What do I want to hell no, I want good ingredients in my body and all my body acting. Maker is a feel good smell good luxury at its finest And it helped me understand what healthy hair is supposed to be like.
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That is the most unbelievable review ever. I mean, you know, you're on the right path when you receive a review like that. I know that's incredible. It's actually giving me good once again. Like it does. There's such a feel good a thing to have someone write something beautiful about your brand like that. Yeah, I feel like that needs to go into your like welcome email, like automated sequence strategy to be like this is what other people say about us. I want to ask you what your advice is for women who are starting a business. Okay. My advice would be figure out what you love about yourself fine and understand your qualities, what you're really good at, you know because some people aren't meant to do this. Some people, you know I was creative, he liked to work alone but what I did was I surrounded myself with people who are not like me, they're opposites and that's who the team around.
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I feel like it's understanding who you are, what you love about yourself. So you love to work contains and are loved in late teens and they have part of that, that is a really good quality for starting a business. If you're someone who just likes to work alone, maybe it's not for you and or figure out a way to make yourself a integrate into groups that will teach you um you know who will show you a different method? Amazing. I usually wrap up with six quick questions that I ask everyone that I interview. So number one is what's your why previous Why not Simple as us, I wouldn't be here if he didn't say why not? Amazing. Number two, what's the number one marketing moment that made your business pop, definitely they vogue article and like for me it was that moment opening the magazine and reading the title and the title was maybe in the coming is natural hair Caroline that puts scalp health first, wow, that's incredible.
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Yeah, it was a real moment to Number three is where do you hang out to get smarter? Oh yeah, Okay. So I think it's not exactly a place, it's more of a mindset. So any time there's an opportunity to learn something I like to call the 1%. So that's roughly that 1% of meaningful inspiration that I carry forward into my daily life and stop expand my perspective and it continues to help me grow and it has that compounding effect. You know, it's like for me, I don't read a bit to get smarter, I read it to get a little bit more information and finally that information will come together. I love that. That's a nice answer. Number four is how do you win the day? And that's around your AM PM rituals and things that you do to feel happy and productive and successful in the day. Absolutely. Well I know things are very different life for me. It was waking up and going for some kind of a class and then go into the office and getting my coffee because I love my coffee and now it's like it's really nice for me, it's about the routine, it's gratitude and keeping up to do list.
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It really is the simple things, making your day as simple as possible, not making too many decisions. So like my wardrobe is basically nude or black or navy and white and I don't have too many patterns, I'll have one or two. I would like to go to something. So that is by keeping my life simple and by not having to make too many decisions because I have to make so many other decisions work earlier. This, that's a routine for me means I just get up and it's automatic. You know, I take my lemon water and didn't do a little bit of gratitude some yoga, start my work with a coffee and end the day with just killing. But I know already what I'm going to eat for lunch and dinner almost similar every day because I don't want to go into that part of my brain to actually have to think, what am I going to eat today? No. So it's like having that routine makes life so much easier. Yeah, I'm definitely a creature of habit, especially during the week and I definitely have to have that coffee in the morning to get going.
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It's my favorite ritual. I know it sounds like one of mine and I love the taste of coffee. I don't even know if it gives me a caffeine rush. I just genuinely love the taste. I actually switched about 95% of my coffee to decaf recently and I can't tell the difference. So, and it allows you to drink more. Yeah, it's quite good to try that definitely. Yeah you should, you should give it a go. Um Question number five is if you only had $1000 left in your business bank account, where would you spend it? So I'm thinking I probably don't have many team members left if $1.30,000. So whoever stopped by me, I'm gonna take you out in the town for the knife invested in the team better than the remaining team definitely, definitely. People are important. That's a good one. And number six is how do you deal with failure and it can be either a specific experience or just your general approach and mindset towards it.
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Yeah I think for me um I don't fight further, I fix it and move on and I don't really consider the failure either because I do believe that and it will lead you to something else. Nice, very nice. Thank you so much for being on the podcast. Where can people find you? So we are Activator dot com or actually occur on instagram. You don't understand my accent. It is A C. T. Plus sign or and a and a acre A C or a. I don't know why I didn't choose an easier name for people to understand when I say my husband has an even stronger accent. So here is a terrible time. People are like what, what is that Danica but you know ask comes from that ritual that moment of a self care, just having a moment to yourself. An acre is the consciousness of land and nature and the ingredients at least.